Off the Bucket List at Last: Sailing from Dublin to Holyhead

For eight years, one journey has been a fixture on my bucket list: taking the ferry from Dublin to Holyhead. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve watched the ferries glide across Dublin Bay, wondering what the experience would be like on board. This year, I finally decided to find out. The plan was set: a road trip through the picturesque landscapes of Wales and into Northern England, with my car joining me for the adventure.

My outbound journey began on the Stena Line ferry, on the rather large Ulysses. Armed with sea sickness tablets as a precaution, I embarked on what turned out to be a rather rushed trip to the port. In my haste, I hadn’t quite factored in the ideal arrival time. For fellow first-timers, I’d recommend allowing at least an hour before departure. After a bit of last-minute navigating, I found the correct queue and soon found myself driving onto the ferry.

Once parked on the ferry, I set off to explore my new ‘home’ for the next three and a half hours. The sheer amount of space was the first thing that struck me; there was plenty of room to stretch my legs and wander. The departure was blessed with beautifully clear skies, a perfect excuse to spend as much time as possible on the top deck.

As we sailed from Dublin, I was treated to a view of the city I had never witnessed before. Seeing iconic landmarks like the harp-shaped Samuel Beckett Bridge and the historic Custom House from this unique vantage point on the water was a wonderful experience.

It was also a great experience seeing Howth and it’s beautiful cliff walks and light house from this angle.

After bidding farewell to the Dublin skyline, I ventured to the lower decks in search of breakfast. I settled into one of the cafes for a welcome coffee and a bite to eat. For the remainder of the crossing, I found a comfortable spot in a lounge area filled with reclining chairs, perfect for a little nap. For those looking for other diversions, the Ulysses offers a duty-free shop, a cinema, and even a pub. Families are also well-catered for with a child-friendly entertainment area. Before I knew it, the rugged coastline of Wales emerged on the horizon, with the historic Holyhead Breakwater Lighthouse guiding us in.

For my return journey, I made sure to arrive with plenty of time to spare. My original booking was on the Swift, a faster vessel, but adverse weather conditions had led to its cancellation. Instead, I was accommodated on an earlier sailing of the familiar Ulysses. I was once again very grateful for my sea sickness tablets. The sea was a stark contrast to my first crossing, with gale-force 7 winds whipping up a choppy sea. I attempted to venture outside a few times but struggled to even open the door against the powerful gusts.

The wind howled and billowed past, a testament to the wisdom of cancelling the smaller Swift. Despite the turbulent conditions, the immense size of the Ulysses handled the swell with impressive stability. While walking around felt slightly off-balance, the gentle rocking motion as I sat in my recliner was surprisingly soothing.

In what felt like no time at all, the lights of Dublin began to appear, signaling the end of my Welsh adventure.

So, what’s the verdict? While the ferry journey undoubtedly takes longer than a flight, the experience is worlds apart. The sense of journey, the freedom to move around, and the unique perspectives it offers made it a truly enjoyable and relaxing way to travel. I can safely say I’m a ferry convert.

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